Castor oil fuel versus sythetic oil fuel

Editors Note: Mechanical Engineer, TimBle (his handle) has worked in Product Engineering for both Lubricants and Fuels for 2 major petroleum companies over the past 11 years. Prior to his petroleum career he worked 4 years in the Aerospace industry.

What is the difference between castor and synthetic rc fuels? Does it matter which one you use and when you use it? And why has there been raging debate over which one is better? Control Chat interviews Fuels and Lubrication Specialist, TimBle, about these long standing and often heated questions.

What is the primary difference between Castor oil and synthetic oil?

Castor Oil is a vegetable fatty acid based oil, similar to many other vegetable oil derived oils from the beans of plants.

Synthetic oil can be derived from nearly any source e.g. crude oil, vegetable oils, petroleum wax, pyrolysis of waste materials. Synthetics are termed such due to the altering of the base structure to create a set of molecules that retains advantages or improves on them but minimises the disadvantages of a simply processed oil. Castor Oil would be considered a simple processed oil.

Why use Castor oil?

Castor oil has been used as a lubricant for decades. Its chemical structure allows it to polymerise at high temperatures to form a sticky wax type material often referred as castor varnish. This wax still has lubricating properties. In the event of oil starvation the wax still separates the metal surfaces for a short time.

Why use synthetic oil?

Synthetic oils typically offer high film strength without the wax formation. Wax formation can be undesirable in ringed engines where the wax build up can result in ring sticking which will lead to a ring failure and subsequent engine failure. Synthetic oils also tend to keep the insides of the engines cleaner which results in more consistent combustion.

Can you switch from running an engine on a fuel containing Castor to a fuel containing synthetic? Or vice versa?

Yes, Castor oil is compatible with all Synthetics, especially the Poly glycols and Di-ester types used as engine oils for RC engines. When switching from castor oil to synthetic lubricant, it is not atypical for an engine to pick up rpm as there is less viscous drag with synthetics than there would be with castor oil. What also often occurs is  removal of the castor varnish due to the high solvency of the synthetic oils.

Is one oil  better to use with a 2-stroke engine? 4-stroke engine?

There is a lot of debate around this question in RC forums, often resulting in the closing of threads because people are really passionate about what works for them. There is also a lot of misinformation around synthetics. When considering an engine oil for an rc engine, the first thing to consider is the mechanical design. Is the engine an ABC/ABL type engine or does it have a compression ring?

If it is of the former type i.e. ABC/ABL, then it is wise to use some castor oil in the fuel. These engines are typically 2 stroke engines. However there are also 2-stroke engines that are ringed engines and this is typically where the debate rages into fisty cuffs and degrades into a “hand bags at dawn” type disputes.

Two Stroke methanol engines are quite tolerant of the lubricant because they are oil lubricated but fuel cooled. In the hot cylinder environment, the fuel evaporates leaving the lubricant behind to do its job.  This lubricant needs to be able to separate the ring from the liner effectively. You will be surprised to know that with a ringed engine the type of oil is less critical because the lubrication comes from the ring riding an oil wave much like a water-skier being pulled over water.

This is called hydrodynamic lubrication. In ringed engines, the oil can escape  behind the ring resulting in effective oil flow under ring to maintain that hydrodynamic wave. In an ABC type engine the oil is pushed away along with the piston, also hydrodynamic but the distribution of pressure in the oil is different. In the ABC type engines, the castor is beneficial here since its highly polar nature allows for it to cling very strongly to the walls of the cylinder ensuring you have that one layer thick oil film to provide separation.

Four strokes are typically ringed engines so the above applies to them as well. However we also need to consider where that oil feed comes from; the top of the piston or is it recirculated oil?

Now we know that 4-strokes draw fuel and oil in from above so lubricating the bore below the piston crown is tough. Hence it is even more important to use an lubricant that can flow past the compression ring i.e. an oil that does not get continuously more viscous and forms wax, but one that is stable under increasing temperature and pressure. Synthetics meet that need. Some 4 strokes recirculate the lube oil and reintroduces the oil via the crankcase. These are a little more tolerant of different lubes but essentially high quality stable viscosity oil is best.

Some people have argued that Castor oil is better than synthetic oil. Historically this argument stems from the manufacturing process of rc engines. Why is this?

If we consider the demographics of the RC hobby, I think you’ll find it s is mostly 40 to 60 something’s who are most active. When these folk started in the hobby, manufacturing techniques where not dominated by CNC (Computer Numerical Control)  machinery but by manned lathes and mills. Engines were mostly cast  and liners were not very accurate. These components were not “close fit” as they are today. The use of castor oil would result in a varnish layer on the components that effectively took up some of the tolerance and provided sealing and hence compression.

Today engines are not made this way. CNC allows millions of components to be produced within a very tight tolerance and very little deviation of dimensions from the intended specification. Modern Rc engines being close fit, actually benefit from as little varnish as possible coating engine parts.

The other dogma driving castor oil is that somehow some folk have it in their heads that castor is still in widespread use today in automotive lubricants. This is simply not true. Although vegetable oils are continuously being developed and reviewed for suitability, they see less than 1% volume use in modern motor vehicle engine oils.

Castor blend fuels often coat the inside of an engine with what is called a ‘varnish’. What is this and is it bad?

The castor varnish is essentially a polymer of castor formed by the oxidation of the castor oil. It still has lubricating properties hence people feel that this is a good thing. However in modern engines where tolerances between parts are much finer, the buildup of castor varnish can lead to a degradation in engine performance.

What is one benefit to using Castor?

It is fairly easily available over the counter and it lubricates well enough.

What is one benefit to using synthetic?

Synthetics oils tend to be more thermally stable at the operating temperatures of RC engines and they don’t leave  residue  behind in the engine.

Is mixing your own fuel recommended for a beginner?

Unless one can ensure a reliability of supply and quality of the components, I would advise against home blending. Varying fuel quality will lead to constant fiddling with mixture settings when what a beginner needs is stick time, not needle time.

What is the best fuel advice you can give to a beginner?

Pick a reputable brand and learn to work with your engines on that brand. Ensure that you keep Nitro, and oil content constant in the fuels to minimise the variables when tuning the engine. It matters not whether you opt for fuel with a little castor, a lot of castor and or full synthetic, just keep using the same fuel blend until you are comfortable with understanding your engines “moods”.


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  4. Han Trinh Thanh
    February 27, 2015

    I plantaion castor seed 1,000 hectare, can help out put from castor oil to become lubricant ? please let me know, and advise me as well, thanks and regards
    Han Trinh Thanh

  5. Chatter
    February 27, 2015

    Sorry Han, I wish I could help you out in that area but I don’t even know where to begin. Perhaps talk with your regional oil refineries and see if they can get you going in the right direction. All the best! -chatter

  6. jason stokes
    February 1, 2016

    Thank you for the well wrote- understandable text above. I have been reading so many different posts / advice etc for the last week, its been burning my head out. This is quality information

  7. Paul Chidgey
    January 21, 2019

    I know this article was done some time ago , but you seem to have the BEST info I can find anywhere on Castor oil . I ride motorcycles and have put around 10ml of Castor oil blend ( Castrol racing R1 OR 747 ) in my fuel 20lt tank in a 1130 4 stroke engine. At present I use Motol 7100 and it contains Ester as well ( who does it work ) So my questions are:
    1. By what you say ( I think ) in a 4 stoke with using castor oil as a fuel additive will lubricate from the top down and help put a vanish lining on top end , injection system and also the bore ?
    2. Will it increase HP , octane levels or fuel efficiency and make engine run smoother ?
    3. At I ride quite in high RPM range at times will this assist in to much build up of vanish ?
    Fantastic write up and I hope you respond .

  8. Chatter
    January 24, 2019

    Thanks for the feedback. Let me get back to you with more detail on the questions above. I may not have answers for all of them but will most certainly point you in the right direction for those 😉

  9. Stephen Donnelly
    October 22, 2019

    Hi all,

    I have an new enya csx 15 ABC 2BB control line motor. From what I have read (everywhere!) I should be using caster for insurance against a lean run. However I have also been warned off caster in a BB engine, by a very credible source, on the grounds that the individual balls may stick in caster varnish/wax inside the ball cadge. I was told that this could result in flat spotting some of the balls on cold start up before the varnish had time to melt, thus buggering up the bearings….What are your thoughts on this?
    Thanks for your help 🙂

  10. Chatter
    October 23, 2019

    Good questions indeed. In short, I’d recommend synthetic for the very reason you stated; varnish and wax. Engines manufactured now days are more precise than ever in their manufacturing and for this very reason, unless you are running an older engine (pre-CNC built) using castor oil will more likely cause damage then good. As for insurance against a “lean run”, this is more about ensuring a proper break-in process and after that, accurate fuel settings (not too lean/hot). Some think that running an engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment and to a point this is correct. However, running at high speed then dropping down to 60%-75% power and cycling through process allows proper break-in to occur by creating an environment for a solid piston ring & cylinder wall mating. I’ve seen many people destroy a new engine through improper break-ins that involve very lean, very long, very hot run times. I’d rather my engine spit a little more oil out (running rich) and have lower RPMs to ensure everything seats well. I’ve had nothing short of success with all my glow engines running synthetic – when I properly break them in, run them, and keep tabs on temperature and RPMs.

    To the above, I’ve been running synthetic on an O.S. .25FX for over 30 years and only recently has it lost compression / rpm due to the piston ring needing to be replaced. The insides of the engine look like new!

  11. Stephen Michael Donnelly
    October 25, 2019

    Thanks so much for your reply, I was starting to fly in ever decreasing circles about this….

  12. Stephen Michael Donnelly
    October 31, 2019

    Hello all

    Just out of interest I sent the same question to Ken Enya about my Enya CXS 15 ABC 2BB control line motor.
    His reply was: “The oil may be better synthetic oil today. As you say, castor oil can solidify. It can be avoided with a competent synthetic oil” I think this seals the deal for all ball bearing RC engines – synthetic is the way to go.


  13. Chatter
    November 13, 2019

    Woot! Awesome to hear Stephen. Glad to hear you are ready to rock and roll AND have a solid pathway to a great running and long lasting engine 🙂

  14. Gabriel
    February 17, 2020

    What would be the best Syntethic oil to mix my own nitro fuel at home?
    Please advise,

  15. Chatter
    February 20, 2020

    @Gabriel – Unfortunately I won’t be able to help you as mixing fuel is far beyond my knowledge base. While the cost for synthetic is high (depending on how much you go through) the quality and reliability is unmatched when compared to the wear and tear it will take on your engines when you use your own fuel mixture. Is there a reason you are mixing fuel vs. purchasing from a reliable source?

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